Look for orange, red cherry, and cinnamon notes when roasted for filter; Anticipate notes of dark chocolate, maple syrup and clove when roasting for espresso
Producer: Various small holders/Olam Innovation Team
Varieties: Colombia, Costa Rica, Sarchimor, Gesha, Oro Azteca, Marsellesa
Elevation: 1,000-1,500 masl
Huatusco, situated within the volcanic mountains of Veracruz, offers breathtaking views and a constant spring-like climate. There are a lot of rainy days and very cold nights.
Due to the difficulty of processing and drying coffee in this environment, as well as lack of resources on the small farms, most coffee farmers sell their coffee as whole fruit to processing mills. At these processing mills, fermentation and drying can be more easily controlled through mechanical processes.
The Innovation Team at Olam Specialty Coffee operate a mill in Huatusco to facilitate controlled processing and milling of the wonderful coffee grown in this region. They have created this special lot of coffee through purchasing the fruits from various farms all over the region.
During the harvest season, coffee cherries are delivered to the mill during the afternoon and evening. The coffee is then cleaned and run through a pulping machine and set into fermentation tanks. The fermentation process of this lot lasted 15 hours, with the coffee submerged in a solution that was made of a starter culture, similar to a sourdough starter, and indigenous microorganisms. Once the coffee had been fermented, the solution and any remaining fruit was washed off. The coffee was then mechanically dried for 30-36 hours, using a constant flow of warm air to dry the coffee. Due to the rainfall in the region, sun drying is not possible.
The Innovation Team is composed of 14 ‘Q’ graders who evaluated this coffee throughout the process. Their conclusion was that it was abundantly more complex than the standard washed process coffee that the mill produces.
Some of the farmers who sell their fruit to Olam shared their experience: “we focus on what we are good at, producing excellent coffee in our traditional ways, through innovative methods which contribute to creating perfect coffee for people who appreciate it”.
The recipe for washed coffee for filter, the recipe begins with a steep rise in temperature to 222˚C. This steep rise right at the beginning allows for the coffee to move through the drying phase a bit quicker. There is a little dip,at 1 minute and 30 seconds, that allows for there to be a bit of a delay moving into sugar browning, and a bit more time to evenly dry the coffee before development begins. Yellowing at 2 minutes, 30 seconds and begin the colour change and development of sugars at 3 minutes and 11 seconds, or thereabouts. First crack begins at 5 minutes, 51 seconds, and there is a slight dip in inlet temperature right before, to help control the first crack. . Once the first crack begins, there is a slight decline of temperature for the remainder of the roast, to keep from overdeveloping the coffee or creating roast defects. The roast ends at 7 minutes, with 1 minute and 10 seconds spent in the development phase. Expect flavours that may remind you of orange, cherry and cinnamon.
The espresso recipe has a similar beginning as the filter recipe. This allows for the coffee to begin the colour changing and sugar browning phase earlier on in the recipe. However, the increase in temperature after the initial dip is a bit more steep. This is to move the coffee into development a bit quicker. First crack begins at 5 minutes and 20 seconds, and is gradual and steady. The recipe ends at 6 minutes and 50 seconds , with 1 minutes and 30 seconds spent in development. Anticipate flavours of dark chocolate, maple syrup and clove.